Skip to main content

Pattern: Double-sided Knitted Argyle Pillow

A double-sided argyle pillow. Two-sided, so you can flip it over for a different design when you get bored of one. The difficulty level is intermediate: it requires some intense colorwork and the management of a lot of strands of yarn.


[Knitting] Double-sided Argyle Pillow

See this pattern on Ravelry, here.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Yarn: Worsted/Medium (I used a random sampling from my stash)
Yardage: 170yds of brown, ~200 yds of blue & red, 45-90yds of white.
Needle: 32" size 5 circular knitting needles (regular knitting needles will work, but can get clunky)
Gauge: I used an assortment of yarns with a needle that is smaller than the recommended size (to get a tighter knit). You may need to adjust the number of pattern repeats, or the size of the pillow border to get your panels to be the correct size.

Large-Double Argyle Panel


First we make the brown argyle side, then we make the red argyle panel, and then sew them together.

Starting with the brown side: it's easiest to do all the colorwork with intarsia. The argyle block is framed by 9 columns and 4 rows of brown stockinette stitch, to give the panel a more square-like shape. The panel should be 14x14 inches at the finish (if you want to make a larger pillow, either add more rows/columns to the brown frame, or add another argyle repeat, or crochet a border around the panel after completion).

Large-Double Argyle Pattern:
CO 49 stitches.
R1, R3. P to end.
R2, R4. K to end.
R5. P9. Begin argyle pattern in St st with Row 1 from the color graph (below). P9.
R6-R36. Complete first argyle pattern in St st, remember to add 9 stockinette stitches to the beginning and ends of each row.
R37. P9. Begin repeat of argyle pattern in St st with ROW 2 from the color graph (below). P9.
R38-R68. Complete argyle repeat in St st, remember to add 9 stockinette stitches to the beginning and ends of each row.
R69, R71. P to end.
R70, R72. K to end.
Cast-off, loosely, in pattern (likely Purl-wise).
If the double argyle panel isn't the desired size:

  1. Add a crochet border until panel is the correct size
  2. Frog, and add the required number of brown/framing rows/columns
  3. Frog, and add another argyle repeat

Small-Multiple Argyle Panel

Now that we have one panel done, we do the other one. Sew them both together and you have a double-sided pillow. For the red, I used a combined method for the colorwork on this pattern: the brown lines are done with intarsia while all the other colorwork is stranded fair isle. This makes for a very thick knit (thus affecting your gauge)! Be sure to keep your stranded yarn loose, and twist the non-working yarn with the working yarn every 5 stitches or so. The colorwork is hectic to keep organized on this one!

This small-multiple argyle block is framed by 4 rows and columns of red stockinette stitch, to give the panel a more square-like shape. The panel should be 14x14 inches at the finish (if you want to make a larger pillow, either add more rows/columns to the red frame, or add another argyle repeat, or crochet a border around the panel after completion).

Large-Double Argyle Pattern:
CO 69 stitches.
R1, R3. P to end.
R2, R4. K to end.
R5. P4. Begin argyle pattern in St st with Row 1 from the color chart (below). Knit the first stitch from the pattern, *(K the remainder of the first row from the chart starting with stitch 2 on the first row), repeat from * twice more. P4.
R6-R26. Continue following the color chart (below) in St st, beginning with the SECOND stitch in the chart for the second and third repeat. Remember to add 4 stockinette stitches to the beginning and ends of each row.
R36-R74. Repeat rows 6-26 twice more. Notice that we're skipping row 5, so that you skip the first row of the color chart for these two repeats. Just make sure to stay in St st wherever the purls/knits are mentioned.
R75, R77. P to end.
R76, R78. K to end.
Cast-off, loosely, in pattern (likely Purl-wise).
If the multiple argyle panel isn't the desired size:

  1. Add a crochet border until panel is the correct size
  2. Frog, and add the required number of red/framing rows/columns
  3. Frog, and add additional argyle repeats
Assembly
  1. Secure and sew-in all yarn ends.
  2. If the two argyle pillow panels are not the same size, crochet a border as needed.
  3. Block panels to square shape
  4. With a scrap of yarn, place right-sides of the two panels together, and sew around the edge of three of the panels' sides.
  5. Pull the pillow case right-sides out through the fourth, unsewn edge.
  6. Place an appropriately-sized pillow form inside the pillow case
  7. With remainder of scrap of yarn, sew the fourth edge shut.
  8. ...and you're done!
Key: CO: Cast-on St st: Stockinette stitch K: knit the given number P: purl the given number

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Pattern: Crochet Octagonal Granny Square

This is an imitation of a granny square seen elsewhere . I break it down into three phases: the octagon, the square frame, and the outside frame. You can free style a bit after any of these stages, but I like the look of all three together. It's possible that an afghan wouldn't need the thicker frame. [Crochet] Octagonal Granny Square ( See this pattern on Ravelry, here. ) Difficulty: Easy Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Worsted/Medium Yardage: 17.5yds/16m total (12.5yds for the octagon motif, 5 yards for the thick frame) Hook: G /4.25mm Gauge: I recommend using this hook+yarn, but if the motif is too "ruffle-y" then go up a size hook and if it's too "bubble-y" go down a size hook. Pattern: Octagon: R1. ch4 and join into a loop. R2. 3ch, 15dc in ch4 sp, join in 3rd chain. {16dc} R3. ch6, 1dc in same sp. *skip next dc. 1dc in next dc. ch3. 1dc in same sp* repeat between * until end. Join in 3rd ch. R4. sl st into ch3 sp. *1sc, 1dc

Pattern: Crochet Picot-Free Border Edging

Picot-based edges can be a pain to crochet, so I made up this picot-free edging for a quick border for your projects. [Crochet] Picot-Free Border Edging See this pattern on Ravelry, here. Difficulty: Easy Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Worsted/Medium Yardage: Depends on dimensions of item you're attaching the edging to Hook: G /4.25mm Gauge: I recommend using this hook+yarn, but if the edging is too "ruffle-y" then go up a size hook (or space out your stitches more) and if it's too "bubble-y" go down a size hook (or put the stitches closer together). Pattern (You will need a completed project to put the edging on) R1. Attach the yarn to your completed project with a sl st. *1sc in next st. 1dc in next st. ch3. 1dc in next st. 1sc in next st.* repeat from * until end. Join in first sc, and weave in ends. Notes Experiment with spacing out thee stitches more, such as giving each sc in its own stitch, but then putting the 2 dc (and 3ch) i